THE 1990S: THE GOLDEN AGE OF FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY AND SUPERMODELS
The 1990s in fashion photography marked an era of radical change in the fashion industry. The era of the supermodels had begun in the late 1980s and lasted until the early 2000s. Supermodels dominated the fashion industry, with names like Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, and Tatjana Patitz captivating fashion consumers around the world. Supermodels were public figures, celebrities who transcended their status as mere models to become cultural icons. Their image was everywhere, in magazines, advertisements, posters, and even music videos.
During the 1990s, fashion photography evolved beyond the mere presentation of clothing and accessories, and became a powerful medium for expressing attitude.
One of the most prominent examples from this era is George Michael's music video for "Freedom! '90", which featured the biggest names in supermodels of the time: Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, and Tatjana Patitz. The video celebrated the beauty and glamour of supermodels and their impact on the popular culture of the time.
Photographers played a crucial role in creating this image of supermodels, and helped shape the aesthetic of fashion in the 1990s. Jacques Olivar, for example, created highly stylized photographs of models like Esther Canadas and Georgina Grenville. His images had a bit of a rock and roll feel to them, and the models looked like they were straight out of a music video, with their strong attitude and personality:
ESTHER CAÑADAS IN WHITE DRESS PARIS 1998
Antoine Verglas, on the other hand, has opted for a more intimate approach to fashion photography. His portraits of Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz and Claudia Schiffer show the models in their intimacy, far from the glitz and glamour of the fashion industry. These photographs have allowed the supermodels to become more than just images, and to become personalities in their own right:
CINDY CRAWFORD
The 1990s marked the heyday of supermodels, but their influence is still felt today. Their image continues to inspire fashion designers, photographers, and aesthetic enthusiasts. Supermodels helped shape the fashion industry as we know it today, and their impact on popular culture will forever be etched in the history of fashion photography.
Herb Ritts, one of the most influential American photographers of the time, worked with many celebrities and supermodels. He created some of the most iconic images of the 1990s. His photographs are often characterized by bold poses and strong contrasts:
STEPHANIE, CINDY, CHRISTY, TATJANA, NAOMI, HOLLYWOOD 1989
HERB RITTS
In addition, Peter Lindbergh is a German photographer considered one of the pioneers of the "anti-touch" movement in fashion photography. His photographs are known for their realistic and unadorned approach, and have often been published in renowned magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. The key element of 1990s fashion photography was the use of minimalist sets and lighting. Peter Lindbergh preferred simple sets and soft lighting to highlight the models' natural beauty. This minimalist approach allowed for a focus on clothing and accessories, rather than cluttered sets. In addition, one of the key elements of 1990s fashion photography was the use of atypical mannequins. Until then, the models tended to be white, slim, tall women. But in the 1990s, models like Kate Moss, who were shorter and more androgynous, began to be used in advertising campaigns:
KATE MOSS, HARPER’S BAZAAR, NEW YORK, 1994
PETER LINDBERGH
Finally, Steven Meisel is also an American photographer who has worked with many of the supermodels of the time, such as Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista. His photographs are often characterized by a dark and provocative aesthetic, and have helped shape the image of the femme fatale in popular culture:
NAOMI CAMPBELL AND CHRISTY TURLINGTON, LOS ANGELES, VOGUE ITALIA, DECEMBER 1989
STEVEN MEISEL
These photographers, and many others, all helped shape the aesthetic of fashion photography in the 1990s, and created images that continue to inspire designers and aesthetes today.
By Thea Lauret